7 Comments

1. 

   sounds like oxidation of the clear cloat. you need to wax or polish more often…….or less often do you polish and buff it alot??

   Comment by oldcutlas — September 26, 2007 @ 9:18 pm

2. 

   The first thing you need is a buffing compound with a motorized buffer – low speed to buff high speed to polish 3m gray pad for buffing white pad for polishing , this will remove the white haze – then you will need to go over it with a good quality carnuba wax like Mothers. This should restore your shine.

   Comment by Tired — September 29, 2007 @ 8:01 am

3. 

   Best advice I can give is:

   Buff the vehicle with a cutting compound and a buffing machine. This will remove the oxidisation, then give it a good coat of Kunoba Gold (don’t know bout the spelling) this is a very high quality wax and will usually outlast other waxes.

   This is not a permanent fix, carrying on using Kunoba Gold at regular intervals.

   Comment by Skewenbabe — September 30, 2007 @ 10:01 pm

4. 

   Mr. Tired has given the answer you should get.

   There are some quicker options.
   1. You can buy a sheet (1) of sand paper of 800 or 1000 grit.
   it is a wet or dry sandpaper, with water sand lightly at first till you see the oxidation disappear in a area out of the way.
   2. Then with any polish and a rag, put a little on a rag and polish a the area you just sanded and take a look.
   3. Some times the discoloration is all the way through, and underneath the clear coat, and may be getting ready to flake.
   4. That clear coat is a re-paint over clear after a repair probably, if it is it is probably the cheapest clear they sell.
   5. Do steps one, 1000 grit sand paper is a little rougher then cardboard and will not damage the paint, its used instead of compound polish to color sand new paint, before buffing and finishing.

   If you lightly sand a bad area before you compound It the compound will cut quicker, and reduce your time by half or better. If you compound in one spot it will heat up and burn the paint….
   3-m Professional compound is the best, $16.00 a quart. a can of red Auto 7 polishing compound is very good for hand rubbing and cost $2, it is 800 grit polish also.
   For up front investigation of the problem go with Auto 7.
   You should have a buffer, anyway get one for $39 bucks at wall mart I have several, there good but a little slow for us.
   We use Mikita’s there over $ 250 these days.

   A bufferer and some 3M Polishing Compound is the way to go for you, a Quart will last you a long time, and when you try it that is what to buff out the car to remove road film before we wax or polish cars….its quick and professional.
   THEN BIG GUY……
   You can charge folks to Polish out their cars, locally they are charging $ 70 buck average to $150 for compound and polish jobs….
   With the Craftsmen or Wall Mart polisher you won’t get in much trouble….the faster commercial buffers will eat Pinstripe, Antennas, and burn corners down to metal so quick you will never no it. Then if the cord gets wrapped abound the shaft of the buffer it could break you fingers, arm, bust windshields, knock off mirror’s.
   Thats the deal……..
   If you get in a bad bad paint spot use the Auto 7 with a buffer, that will be a quick cure…..

   If you were around Houston you could use our stuff, no problem there are guys who will do the same in your area I’m sure…..car guys are car guys that is how i learned some one showed me everything over years.

   Good luck, Guy………..every thing will come out fine,

   Comment by math.merlin — October 3, 2007 @ 3:37 pm

5. 

   VaporWax is designed to correct that problem. It is a non abrasive liquid spray that removes oxidation instantly, restores the natural color and leaves a brilliant shine. It is not a covering like wax or a abrasive like polish. It would take less than 15 minutes to do the whole truck.

   Comment by LynSheryl — October 5, 2007 @ 1:40 am

6. 

   Wax will not do it, neither will polish, look for a non abrasive liquid paint deoxidizer.

   Comment by WaveMotion — October 8, 2007 @ 7:32 am

7. 

   To remove oxidation, just get some paint cleaner (eg. Meguiar’s Step 1) and a few micrfibre clothes. Put a coat of wax on your car afterwards for added protection. No need for sand paper or rubbing compound.

   Comment by Kenneth Kwan — October 9, 2007 @ 4:08 am

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